If you’re looking for a vineyard that encompasses the meaning of “family owned and operated”, look no further than Pugliese Vineyards in Cutchogue. It is truly a family operation, and the pride that the Pugliese family puts into maintaining a charming atmosphere is evident from the moment one walks onto the property.
Pugliese Vineyards: American classic meets Italian rustic
Upon parking, we were greeted by a bright red, vintage American Gasoline pump, which stands out amongst the rest of the natural grounds. Though it doesn’t seem like it would fit with the vineyard’s atmosphere, it somehow works, and adds to the charm of the location.
The outdoor tasting area, where my mom and I enjoyed a flight, is just beyond the gas pump. This is currently my favorite outdoor area of all the wineries that I’ve been to so far: a pergola wrapped with grape vines allows guests to feel as if they are in a small village in Italy, rather than on the North Fork of Long Island. A lake, complete with fountain and koi fish, is nearby, and guests are welcome to take their drinks and sit by the lake to take in the views.
Koi fish swim lazily in the lake at Pugliese Vineyards
Though the indoor tasting room was closed, I was able to stop inside the gift shop where Pat Pugliese, the owner, was making and personalizing a wine basket for a recently-engaged couple. Mrs. Pugliese personalizes the vineyard’s bottles and glasses herself. She and her husband opened the current winery in 1993, though they had already been in operation for thirteen years prior to that. Today, the vineyard encompasses 45 acres, and all of the vineyard’s wines are grown, produced, and bottled on-site.
As the Puglieses’ four children grew older, they also became involved in the family business. Their son, Peter, is the current winemaker; son Ralph is the property’s photographer. Son Lawrence is the vineyard manager, and their daughter, Domenica, manages the winery.
The tasting at Pugliese featured a variety of wine samples
This family endeavor shows no signs of slowing down. When I asked one of the members of the family about the wines they are best known for, she paused at first. There is such a large variety available, that she had a difficult time choosing just one. Her recommendations: for sparkling wines, the Brut; for whites, the Chardonnay Gold; for reds, the Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, and for dessert, the Late Harvest Riesling. Those were the same wines that I sampled in my tasting, and as a fan of sparkling wine, I really enjoyed their Brut.
The members of the Pugliese family who were on site the day that I visited were warm and cordial. Though they were busy, their passion for the craft was clear that day- it’s the kind of genuine passion in a business that makes you want to return again someday soon.
History and sustainability are two words that don’t always go hand-in-hand, but a visit to Bedell Cellars in Cutchogue proves that they can function harmoniously. One of Long Island’s oldest wineries, Bedell is entrenched in local history, which is something that I love learning about and have a deep appreciation for. However, I’m also a firm believer in doing what we can to protect our environmental future- happily, Bedell’s methods of winemaking, though locally rooted, ensure an environmentally friendly, sustainable approach. Bedell Winemaker Rich Olsen-Harbich has been making wine for almost forty years, and was kind enough to share some information with me about this beautiful North Fork vineyard.
Bedell Cellars was founded in 1979 by Kip and Susan Bedell, who purchased the fifty-acre farm that currently houses the Tasting Room and surrounding grounds. The Tasting Room itself speaks to its Long Island roots- it was a former potato barn that dates back to 1919, when potato and duck farms reigned supreme on Long Island’s East End.
Bedell’s historical Tasting Room is framed by beautifully manicured gardens
In total, Bedell’s grounds encompass seventy-five acres, with grapes being planted and harvested over a span of three farms. In the year 2000, former New Line Cinema CEO Michael Lynne purchased the winery along with his wife, Ninah. That next year, the Tasting Room was renovated, but the Lynne family made sure to keep its historical architecture as an homage to its Long Island roots. Though the indoor Tasting Room was closed at the time of my visit in August, the expansive outdoor seating area provided a breezy, comfortable spot to sit and enjoy a tasting on an extremely hot summer day.
The tasting room provided a break from the sun, but did not sacrifice on vineyard views
Mr. Lynne’s passion for not only wine, but also contemporary art, is evident while walking around Bedell. Mr. Olsen-Harbich explained that some of Mr. Lynne’s impressive personal art collection is displayed throughout the Tasting Room and grounds. The Lynnes even had original artwork commissioned when creating some of the labels on Bedell’s wine bottles. Though Mr. Lynne passed away last year, Mrs. Lynne has continued the legacy that the couple began two decades ago.
According to Mr. Olsen-Harbich, all of Bedell’s wines are “grown, made, bottled and stored here.” They do not purchase fruit from any outside vendors to produce their wine, and all of their fruit is certified sustainable through the Long Island Sustainable Winegrowing Organization. Their grapes are all harvested by hand, as well. Mr. Olsen-Harbich makes true Long Island terroir wine: to taste it is to truly taste a North Fork, Long Island wine. Part of this experience involves the yeast used in the winemaking process: Mr. Olsen-Harbich only uses wild, indigenous yeasts in his winemaking. Bedell is the only winery in the area to do this, which provides for an extremely authentic Long Island wine tasting experience.
When I asked Mr. Olsen-Harbich if there was a particular wine that they were best known for, he replied, “probably our best-known wine is our Musée, which is a red blend that reflects the best of the vintage.” American lifestyle magazine Wine Spectator described the Musée as the “grand vin of New York.” Red wine lovers will certainly like it, and even those who tend to go for whites (like yours truly) will find the blend in the Musée enjoyable.
Bedell’s Long Island winemaking roots are also strong in part because of their CEO, Trent Preszler. Mr. Preszler is actively involved in both the development and the marketing of the Long Island Wine District, and he holds a PhD from Cornell University in viticulture- the cultivation and harvesting of grapes. Mr. Preszler is the first person in Long Island winemaking to hold such a distinction, and there is no doubt that this expertise has contributed to the continued success that Bedell has seen.
Bedell continues its long-standing traditions with its cellar crew. It was the first winery in the east to have an all-female cellar crew, and the vineyard continues that practice to this day. Keeping to important traditions, while also being adaptable enough to practice current, sustainable winemaking practices has been a recipe for success at Bedell Cellars. It’s a winery that Long Islanders should be proud to include as a part of their East End heritage.
Pandemic or not, visit a Long Island winery on a beautiful summer Saturday, and it will be crowded. The wineries are a favorite pastime of Long Island and New York City residents, and “going out East” for the weekend- particularly from Memorial Day to Labor Day- has basically become ingrained in our culture. As a result, I’ve been doing most of my Drink.Explore.Repeat winery visits on weekdays, hoping that this will give me a better chance to be able to spend some time conducting interviews and not taking a manager or staff member away from their job responsibilities.
However, one recent Saturday I happened to be out East with some friends, and we had a few hours before our dinner reservations. Naturally, what did we decide to do? Why, we stopped at a winery, of course! I had been to Palmer Vineyards in Riverhead once before, but it had been a few years since that visit, so I was excited to go back.
Just as expected on a blazing hot, sunny summer day, the winery was packed. With the tasting room closed due to social distancing, all outdoor tables with umbrellas, as well as seating under the covered patio was at a premium. By some miracle, we happened to snag a patio table from a couple that was just standing up to leave- prime real estate (though I worry I may have scared them as I bounded over to the table upon seeing them get up; my apologies if you’re reading this).
The coveted patio: perfect for a blazing hot day!
As hours passed and we chatted and drank our wine, I began to worry that I would not have the opportunity to speak with Patrick, the manager. Our waiter had given him notice that I had a few questions to ask, but for hours all staff hands were on deck, attending to guests and preparing bottles. They remained attentive, but it was clear that they were extremely busy, so we continued to enjoy the bottle of Albariño that was recommended to us.
Crisp and refreshing; my go-to from now on when I visit Palmer
Luck must have been on my side this day, because as the afternoon wound down and we were getting ready to leave, Patrick kindly took advantage of some rare downtime to speak with me about Palmer Vineyards. The vineyard itself was opened in 1983 by the Palmer family, though they sold it to the current owners, the Massoud family in 2018. When the Massouds purchased the vineyard, Palmer became the sister winery to Paumanok, another Massoud-owned winery in Aquebogue.
One of the most intriguing facts about Palmer lies in the grapes that they produce. They were the first vineyard on Long Island to grow the Albariño grape, which is a native varietal to Spain and does not grow easily on North Fork soil. However, the previous winemaker employed with Palmer was from Spain, and took a chance on growing the Albariño grape. The risk paid off, as Palmer’s Albariño continues to be the wine that they are best known for. And now, I must confess: though I had been to Palmer years ago, I had never heard of Albariño before this visit (I was clearly not as attentive in my twenties; one of the perks to being a thirty-something, I suppose!). I can now appreciate and understand why it’s so popular. It is a crisp white wine, which was refreshing, and perfect to drink on the sweltering day that we visited.
In addition to their Albariño, Palmer prides itself on successfully growing other varietals that are either challenging to sustain in the area, or that are not as common on Long Island wineries. Their Pinot Blanc is another popular wine that comes from a grape that often has difficulty growing in the region. The twenty or so varietals that are grown on Palmer’s 43 sustainable acres encompass a wide tasting portfolio, so there is a strong likelihood that all wine drinkers will find something to enjoy on their menu.
One of the things I love most about the Drink.Explore.Repeat project is getting to immerse myself in the unique atmosphere of each winery that I visit. I’ll be honest: when I first started this in the beginning of the summer, I assumed that over time the wineries would all blend together. However, as I visit more, I’m noticing that the opposite is happening. Yes, they all serve wine and most have rows of beautiful, sprawling grape vines. However, that’s where the commonalities end. Each winery truly has its own distinct feel and setting, and the more places I visit, the more I am noticing and enjoying those differences. Walking up to Palmer, the first view that greets is a wooden, steepled tasting room that provides a charming, rustic introduction. The welcome continues around back on the covered patio that enables a slight breeze to blow through, making it extremely easy for an afternoon of relaxing, sipping, and chatting to pass quickly by. The view from the patio completes the bucolic atmosphere, with wooden picnic tables and acres of green fields surrounding the grape vines.
As our conversation ended, I thanked Patrick for taking time out of a busy Saturday to talk to me. By that point, the sun had moved further west, so we finished our wine and started packing up. The groups of guests that had been scattered on the patio and lawn tables had either already left, or, like us, were getting ready to leave. The staff at Palmer was cleaning up- they would be closing soon and were probably grateful to be heading home after an extremely hectic afternoon. Golden hour descended upon the North Fork, closing out yet another successful Saturday out East.
