The party bus I was sitting on was filled with an air of excitement and the smell of orange juice, which was being used to make champagne-heavy mimosas. Every seat was filled with kids in their early 20s, drinking and talking about the summer that lay ahead. I shifted on the cloth seat to look at the organizer of this day, who had just begun to quiet everyone down to make an announcement.
“Hey guys, just a reminder that when we get there, you’ll be able to get a flight with the money you paid.”
“A flight?” I whispered to my friend Candice, who was sitting next to me. “I thought that we were going to a winery. Why do we need to fly anywhere?” Maybe the winery wasn’t on Long Island, but on neighboring Shelter Island or Block Island. But if that was the case, why wouldn’t we just take a ferry?
Candice shrugged her shoulders and looked just as confused as I felt. Five minutes later, the bus pulled into Martha Clara Vineyards in Riverhead, NY. It was summer 2011. I was fresh out of year one of grad school and was about to go to my first winery.
We had a blast at Martha Clara that day. The sun was shining, a nice breeze was blowing, and I felt happy and carefree. I tried Sauvignon Blanc there for the first time- still my favorite- and I learned what a flight actually means in the wine world. To this day, a flight is still my favorite order at wineries!
Without a doubt, my favorite part of the day was the animals. Martha Clara not only offered fantastic wine, but they also had an array of farm animals- goats, sheep, even llamas and longhorn cattle- some of which we were allowed to feed. I have a vivid memory of buying some animal food, and feeding their goats in a happy, tipsy state.
Fast forward seven years, to August 2018. One of my friends was getting married, and for her bachelorette party, we went to the North Fork wineries. I was really excited that one of our stops would be Martha Clara. Though it remained my favorite winery since that very first experience in 2011, I hadn’t been in some time. I couldn’t wait to get my Sauvignon Blanc and feed the animals again!
However, after we got our wine and went outside, it became clear that something was off. When I looked at the grassy areas in the distance where the animal pens were, I couldn’t see anything moving. I walked closer to take a look. Nothing. After asking multiple members of the Martha Clara staff, I learned that the owners had sold the animals. I was devastated, and completely soured on the winery itself.
Two years later, and I’m currently in the midst of Drink.Explore.Repeat winery visits. I knew that Martha Clara- now under new ownership and named RGNY- would need to be one of my stops, but I was conflicted over it, knowing that my animal friends would not be there. But the reservation was made, and I kept an open mind as I set out for Riverhead, New York, to the place that used to be my favorite North Fork stop.
Though it was a weekday, the sun was shining brightly overhead, so it promised to be a busy day in wine country. Knowing their volume of visitors, RGNY had taken many precautions to keep safe: the tasting room was closed, the number of people allowed inside at one time to make their purchases was limited, and all orders were handed out on the patio, which opened up into the winery itself. Employees used walkie talkies to communicate orders, and the system seemed to work effectively. Plus, social distancing was easy on the vineyard’s massive grounds- tables with large overhead coverings were able to space visitors out while providing shade from the day’s blazing sun.
I was excited to learn that RGNY was offering flights, and opted for the 2018 RGNY Selection, which included their Viognier, their Sparkling White, their White Merlot, and their Pinot Noir. The Viognier is the wine that RGNY is best known for. It is made from a grape that originates in France and produces a fruit forward, bold white wine. Carolyn, the manager on premises that day, explained a little bit about the history of Viognier as it relates to RGNY. Besides being one of the more difficult wines to pronounce (perhaps surpassed only by Gewürztraminer, ahhh!), it is not a grape that grows easily on Long Island. However, the Entenmann family (yes, THOSE Entenmanns of yummy bakery fame), who owned Martha Clara Vineyards, were able to successfully grow it on their property. It was the first vine they planted on their land, and it was the favorite of owner William Entenmann’s mother, Martha Clara Entenmann.
In 2018, the children of William Entenmann, who passed away in 2011, sold Martha Clara Vineyards to the Rivero-González family. No stranger to wine- the family owns a vineyard in Mexico! – Maria Rivero-González had been looking to expand and open a winery in New York for some time. She went to Columbia University, and fell in love with Long Island’s North Fork. So, when the opportunity to purchase Martha Clara arose, she took it and renamed it RGNY, after her surname.
Carolyn explained to me that both the owner and the winemaker at RGNY are women, and she enjoys being part of a female-forward, mixed-heritage vineyard. The Rivero-González family has done a fantastic job preserving the legacy of William Entenmann, while also making a name for themselves in Long Island Wine Country. Tasting the Viognier, it is easy to see why Martha Clara Entenmann loved it so much, and why the Rivero-González family continued this tradition. It’s a vineyard worth returning to- even if there are no longer animals on premises.
‘til next time,
Lau
