History and sustainability are two words that don’t always go hand-in-hand, but a visit to Bedell Cellars in Cutchogue proves that they can function harmoniously. One of Long Island’s oldest wineries, Bedell is entrenched in local history, which is something that I love learning about and have a deep appreciation for. However, I’m also a firm believer in doing what we can to protect our environmental future- happily, Bedell’s methods of winemaking, though locally rooted, ensure an environmentally friendly, sustainable approach. Bedell Winemaker Rich Olsen-Harbich has been making wine for almost forty years, and was kind enough to share some information with me about this beautiful North Fork vineyard.
Bedell Cellars was founded in 1979 by Kip and Susan Bedell, who purchased the fifty-acre farm that currently houses the Tasting Room and surrounding grounds. The Tasting Room itself speaks to its Long Island roots- it was a former potato barn that dates back to 1919, when potato and duck farms reigned supreme on Long Island’s East End.
In total, Bedell’s grounds encompass seventy-five acres, with grapes being planted and harvested over a span of three farms. In the year 2000, former New Line Cinema CEO Michael Lynne purchased the winery along with his wife, Ninah. That next year, the Tasting Room was renovated, but the Lynne family made sure to keep its historical architecture as an homage to its Long Island roots. Though the indoor Tasting Room was closed at the time of my visit in August, the expansive outdoor seating area provided a breezy, comfortable spot to sit and enjoy a tasting on an extremely hot summer day.
Mr. Lynne’s passion for not only wine, but also contemporary art, is evident while walking around Bedell. Mr. Olsen-Harbich explained that some of Mr. Lynne’s impressive personal art collection is displayed throughout the Tasting Room and grounds. The Lynnes even had original artwork commissioned when creating some of the labels on Bedell’s wine bottles. Though Mr. Lynne passed away last year, Mrs. Lynne has continued the legacy that the couple began two decades ago.
According to Mr. Olsen-Harbich, all of Bedell’s wines are “grown, made, bottled and stored here.” They do not purchase fruit from any outside vendors to produce their wine, and all of their fruit is certified sustainable through the Long Island Sustainable Winegrowing Organization. Their grapes are all harvested by hand, as well. Mr. Olsen-Harbich makes true Long Island terroir wine: to taste it is to truly taste a North Fork, Long Island wine. Part of this experience involves the yeast used in the winemaking process: Mr. Olsen-Harbich only uses wild, indigenous yeasts in his winemaking. Bedell is the only winery in the area to do this, which provides for an extremely authentic Long Island wine tasting experience.
When I asked Mr. Olsen-Harbich if there was a particular wine that they were best known for, he replied, “probably our best-known wine is our Musée, which is a red blend that reflects the best of the vintage.” American lifestyle magazine Wine Spectator described the Musée as the “grand vin of New York.” Red wine lovers will certainly like it, and even those who tend to go for whites (like yours truly) will find the blend in the Musée enjoyable.
Bedell’s Long Island winemaking roots are also strong in part because of their CEO, Trent Preszler. Mr. Preszler is actively involved in both the development and the marketing of the Long Island Wine District, and he holds a PhD from Cornell University in viticulture- the cultivation and harvesting of grapes. Mr. Preszler is the first person in Long Island winemaking to hold such a distinction, and there is no doubt that this expertise has contributed to the continued success that Bedell has seen.
Bedell continues its long-standing traditions with its cellar crew. It was the first winery in the east to have an all-female cellar crew, and the vineyard continues that practice to this day. Keeping to important traditions, while also being adaptable enough to practice current, sustainable winemaking practices has been a recipe for success at Bedell Cellars. It’s a winery that Long Islanders should be proud to include as a part of their East End heritage.
‘til next time,
Lau
