Today, much of Long Island paints a perfect picture of modern-day suburbia: well-manicured lawns, white picket fences, and inviting sidewalks are hallmarks of many communities. It’s certainly fitting, as Long Island is the birthplace of the modern American suburb, thanks to William Levitt’s mid-20th century Levittown housing developments, which revolutionized the suburban housing model.
However, there are still many residents on the island who recall a time before suburbia sprawled all the way to the eastern forks. The farther east one travels, the more likely they are to encounter people who remember the Long Island of yesteryear: well-tended farms and one-store towns with only the basic necessities. Though farms still dominate much of the eastern end of Long Island, there is no doubt that suburbia, along with larger shopping centers, has made its permanent mark.
The second stop on my DrinkExploreRepeat adventure took me to the south fork of Long Island, to a winery that recalls the East End’s pre-suburban culture. On a day trip out to Montauk, we stopped at Duck Walk Vineyards, which is one of three wineries in the area. When naming it, the owners of Duck Walk wanted to pay homage to Long Island’s agricultural past. Knowing that eastern Long Island had once been synonymous with potato farms and duck farms, they chose the latter as the inspiration for the vineyard’s name (personally, I’m glad they went for the ducks and not the potatoes).
Today, Duck Walk has two locations on the East End: Duck Walk Hampton in Water Mill, on the south fork and Duck Walk North in Southold, on the north fork (yes, I too get confused as to why Southold is not on the south fork). We visited Duck Walk Hampton, and were happy to find that they were offering tasting flights- with Covid restrictions still placed on businesses, flights at wineries are few and far between, but Duck Walk provided them in a clean, safe manner.
We started out in the tasting room, where our sommeliers could not have been kinder when providing information about Duck Walk. Opened in 1994, it was always intended to be a winery, but their Water Mill location has often been mistaken for a church. Standing in their tasting room, it’s easy to see why: the steepled, wooden roof and colorful, stained-glass windows give it a churchly feel, while light filtering in bathes the room in a golden glow, providing a calming atmosphere. Wooden statues of the owner and his children in the midst of winemaking also serve as reminders of the family-oriented nature of Duck Walk- besides the two Duck Walk vineyards, the family also owns Pindar and Jason, two other wineries on the north fork.
Once our tasting was poured, we brought it outside to a patio bordered by a beautiful pond with an array of flowers and bushes and, of course, rows of grapes growing in the distance. We sat down, removed our masks, and enjoyed some of Duck Walk’s most popular wines. Our tasting included their Sauvignon Blanc, their Rosé, their Gatsby Red, and their Blueberry Port. When speaking with the sommeliers, I was intrigued by the Blueberry Port- although most Port wines are typically made from grapes, Duck Walk’s is comprised of 100% wild blueberries. To my surprise (remember- white wine lover here), the Port was my favorite taste of the day. It was sweet and refreshing. Plus, they served it with a piece of dark chocolate wrapped in a little grape foil, which perfectly complemented the blueberry taste.
Another favorite of the day was the Gatsby Red, which also happens to be one of Duck Walk’s more popular summer wines, along with their Southampton White, Rosé, and Sauvignon Blanc. The Gatsby Red is a semi-sweet blend of Merlot and Cabernet and is meant to be served, much to my delight, like a white wine: thoroughly chilled.
A fun note about Duck Walk’s wine: the labels on their bottles are fantastic. From the F. Scott Fitzgerald-esque label on the Gatsby Red, to the classic duck motif on some of their staple bottles, take a minute and peruse their designs here.
When in Duck Walk Hampton’s tasting room, you’ll notice a tank and fermentation room off to the side. Though this was the original location for the production of Duck Walk’s wines, all wines are now made at their North location, since it has larger acreage on which their grapes are produced. Those grapes grown on the Hampton premises are transported to Duck Walk North for processing. However, even though they are made in one location, due to differences in soils on the north and south fork, the grapes actually taste different. Our sommelier compared the Hampton grapes to those grown in Bordeaux, France, due to the cooler air and closer proximity to the water. Though it makes sense, I didn’t realize how different soils could affect the taste of crops, which I find really fascinating.
As a family-run vineyard that incorporates Long Island’s farm history in its name, it’s no surprise that attention to agricultural details would be brought up in a conversation with the sommeliers. It’s just another reminder that Duck Walk continues to preserve the heritage of their surroundings while providing guests with a beautiful atmosphere to gather and enjoy.
‘til next time,
Lau