Lau Alexandra
When I visited Lieb Cellars last weekend, the chalkboard behind the bar had a winter scene drawn on it with the following quote: “There are far better things ahead than any we leave behind.”
I’m trying to embody that quote as I get back to visiting wineries, determined to continue Drink.Explore.Repeat in this bizarre time that we’ll hopefully soon be leaving behind. Though it’s cold and sitting outside isn’t always an option depending on the winery, there is something refreshing about Long Island Wine Country in the winter. The throngs of people and the traffic that backs up on the one-lane roads once Memorial Day hits are virtually non-existent. The vibe on the North Fork just seems more relaxed- more of a locals-only feel, which I tend to gravitate towards (yes, I realize I’m not technically a North Fork local).
Visiting the tasting area at Lieb Cellars presents a unique dichotomy. On the one hand, it feels like stepping back in time, as if I were invited to an intimate mid-century gathering. Classic music from artists such as Ella Fitzgerald plays softly, allowing guests to relax, imbibe, and listen, while still being able to carry on a conversation. The two rooms that comprise the tasting area are lit with golden-hued lights, casting a warm glow throughout.
However, there is also a very modern feel within the tasting rooms. The warm lights are enclosed in black industrial cages. The metal bar and black ceiling are corrugated, and, combined with red-bordered glass doors that distinguish one tasting room from the other, further the industrial look. It’s a nice contrast to the classic aspects; the two pair well together and create an inviting space.
The tasting rooms opened recently- in 2012- but the vineyard itself was purchased in 1992 by Mark Lieb. The Lieb Wine Club manager, Christie, told me that the initial purchase was fourteen acres of Pinot Blanc, which is Lieb’s flagship wine. Currently, Lieb Cellars has ninety-four acres of Pinot Blanc spread over five vineyards, which comprises the most continuous acreage of the grape in the entire United States!
It is with good reason that Pinot Blanc is the wine most representative of Lieb Cellars. Winemaker Russell, who has been working with Lieb since their first label was made in 1993, lets the grape show through in his winemaking process. The result is a beverage that allows the fruit to speak for itself. This method is applied to the other wines that he makes as well, with sustainable, pure tastes as the end goal.
I can say with confidence that under Russell’s guidance, Lieb Cellars is meeting that goal. Knowing that Pinot Blanc is their flagship wine, I opted for a white wine tasting during my visit. It included their Estate Sparkling Pinot Blanc, their Estate Pinot Blanc, their unoaked Bridge Lane Chardonnay, and their oaked Estate Chardonnay, all served on a pre-labeled terracotta dish- those little details made the tasting at Lieb stand out from other tastings. The Pinot Blanc was my favorite of the four, with the Sparkling Pinot coming in at a close second. Christie also said that, though the Pinot is what Lieb is most well-known for, the sparkling wine should not be overlooked. For those who enjoy red wines, she mentioned Lieb’s Cabernet Franc. It’s a grape that grows well on Long Island, and every year it produces a solid red.
All of the grapes that Russell uses in his winemaking for Lieb Cellars are estate-grown. The grapes grown for their sister label, Bridge Lane Wine, are all New York-based, though they are not necessarily estate-grown. This is due to the wider variety of formats that Bridge Lane’s wine comes in- besides bottles, they also offer cans, boxes, and kegs (wine kegger at my place as soon as this pandemic is over). As a result, many more grapes are needed to produce the volume of product that Bridge Lane offers. I was impressed that they still managed to stay within New York to meet these needs- the notion of supporting and sustaining local continues to be reflected throughout their operations.
As I left Lieb after a relaxing visit, the snow of what would become a pretty major Nor’easter was beginning to fall. Driving home, I thought again of the quote on the tasting room chalkboard: “There are far better things ahead than any we leave behind.” With that in mind, here’s to the wintertime continuation of Drink.Explore.Repeat- it’s been too long. Cheers!
‘til next time,
Lau
